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I arrived late Thursday evening so I did not have to make a long drive and climb the same day.
Early Friday morning I met our camp watch dogs (old guys in golf carts) for check in and to move to our group site after breakfast. As you may have noticed I am an early riser and the wait for Phil, Dave and Ted until 10 was not easy looking at the rock and not climbing. They showed on time even though Phil informed us he was approximately 9 minutes late getting to Dave's house. |
As a new member to your crew I was surprised I would get to lead anything, I figured I had to pay dues on second for a time as initiation. Much to my surprise we take my rack and I would get to lead the first climb. As we approached ecstasy Phil pointed to the belay ledge. Since I have no real knowledge of Seneca climbing routes, direction was important. I can see why this is a true classic climb as I led swapping to Phil, then I led the last pitch and still don't know why I need a #11 hex? (I had told Jim about the perfect slot for a #11 hex on the wall, right after you swing to the west-facing outside wall. Obviously, he got up without making that particular placement, but I still love it, Phil Sidel) Phil and I had topped out and scrambled to his favorite lunch spot - flat, shady and little wind.
Then we were off through the luncheon ledge I think to Le Gourmet where Phil led a very good late day heavy rope drag of a climb. I would then lead Front-C as I was educated on the fact basically lay backing is for sissies. I was surprised; I thought it was a standard climbing technique???? (Sorry if I implied that. The idea I meant to convey was that: The best climbers do that pitch by using stemming and face climbing techniques, avoiding the more obvious, but energy-consuming layback. Phil Sidel) This was to be our final pitch with a hard late day crux move, another clean climb with no weighted ropes always a day. After a safe rap out on ropes too thin for my stubby hands we could claim another great day of climbing. We were off where Dave and Ted had our cold drinks waiting. thanks!!!!
Saturday brought a different day TOTALLY.
It began as I forgot my rope as we switched teams and as we were going back
to get the rope I was moved again to climb with Dave Haines.
Dave had set us up for Conn's East; now all we had to do was find it. After several small scrambles onto ledges that lead to ledges with more dirt on them we saw Dave and Hannah, who directed us to our climb. As we skimmed the route description I took off on the lead looking for a bolted station what seemed to be forever. On a great climb with good pro I arrived at the ledge and Dave came up.
As Dave left to lead the second pitch so did the nice weather. It had started to rain light, but we didn't get wet. As the rain appeared to hit the tree tops about 200' from the wall, we were dry. That soon ended. As Dave approached the second belay station, the rain became vertical and harder. As I left to second the pitch the rock was not soaked and still had good friction. As I approached Dave I am not sure if it was raining harder or I was starting to realize where I was. Upon clipping in is when the lightning struck. I was glad to see Dave appeared calm and ready to rap out, a true sign of good leader. We did our 2 raps and took off.
My lesson was to remember never climb on the backside when weather could be an issue.
As we sat in the porch we enjoyed our beer, wet like our climbing. We will get back there again Dave, now we know where we are going!!!
Sunday as I was ready to leave I suggested Coopers as a possible dry alternative. Barb, Dave and Hanna seemed up for it. As Barb and I approached Coopers it finally got to 50 although it appeared to have rained over night. We pulled off and realized we didn't have Dave's phone number (sorry guys) Barb and I proceeded to the Sunset Wall where we joined up with more ECPers Bill and Amy and Jack which made a good size group. With plenty of climbs set up we climbed until 5 on dry rock!! My weekend ended with a great hummus picnic on a sunny rock
AS NEW MEMBER I WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU ALL FOR MAKING ME FEEL WELCOMED AND GREAT TIME, RAIN NOT WITHSTANDING
Jim Schuring