Trip Report: ECP Rock School Graduation Climb - May 30-June 1

FRIDAY - May 30

Inez is a strong leader (she had led me up Climb and Punishment on the Southern Pillar some years back), and we were looking forward to climbing Ecstasy. Since it was likely we would be a team of three, I was busily planning the logistics of climbing Ecstasy with three people. ("a" leads first pitch; brings up "b"; then "b" leads second pitch. "a" then brings up "c". "c" ties in on the rope trailing from "b" and climbs/cleans the second pitch. At the end of the second pitch, "b" or "c" leads the third pitch before "a" is brought up the second pitch. Thus there are never more than two climbers on either belay ledge.)

Unfortunately, Inez called me about 6pm on Thursday and said that - in view of the bad weather predictions and all to work she had to do on her new house - she would not get to Seneca on Friday or Saturday as planned. It was sad, but we can look forward to seeing Inez at Seneca and The New when she retires to West Virginia next year.

I was a little late getting to Dave Haines' house in West View, but we were on the way before six a.m., and we got to Seneca before ten o'clock. Jim Schuring was waiting. I teamed up with Jim and Dave and Ted teamed up for the day's climbing.

I had seen Jim climb at White Rocks on Memorial Day and knew he was a strong climber. He said he was confident about his leading, but was unfamiliar with the routes at Seneca. Since Ecstasy had been the original plan, I figured we would start with that. I especially like it because it involves the least strenuous approach. I wasn't sure enough of my own skills these days, so I figured I might prefer the easier, but always delightful West Buttress Variation finishing on Ecstasy Junior. We used Jim's rack and my twin ropes. I suggested that Jim lead the first and third pitches. I would lead the second and could decide whether to go straight up the West Buttress Variation or to traverse right to the second belay position of Ecstasy.

Jim led the first pitch, setting good pro all the way up. I cleaned and arrived at the good belay ledge, where we re-racked the pro and I took the lead rack. I decided to take the easy route - straight up the crack - where I was confident I was physically up to leading it very safely. I led the pitch with no problems, and set up the belay back at a comfortable rock. In the past I have put a nice high directional in a small crack high on the west-facing wall. However leaning over to place that is a bit scary, so this time I placed a directional lower on the east facing wall of the buttress flake. It worked well, but I was belaying downward instead of upward as I brought Jim up.

We were using FRS radios to send signals (easier and clearer than shouting), and all went smoothly.

Dave from Tony Barnes' Guide Crew was soloing up "The Burn" and talked with us on the E.J. belay ledge. He and Jim had a discussion about "the Soloist" (which Dave was using) vs. "the Silent Partner." Dave continued directly up to the top from there, while we went over to the corner crack that starts the final pitch of Ecstasy Junior.

Jim led that, once again placing sound pro all the way (even though he didn't have a number 11 hex to place in that perfect slot just after you move around to the west face part of the climb). I cleaned as he brought me up.

We had lunch in the pleasant couloir just past the E.J. belay notch. Then we hiked northward past Luncheon Ledge and the Face of A Thousand Pitons. Some climbers were sitting near the base of Le Gourmet, but said they were not waiting to get on that climb. So we went ahead and did the first pitch of Le Gourmet. Sometimes that pitch seems very easy; other times it seems to demand a lot. This time the climb seemed demanding. I got up okay, but there were times when I felt some stress. This time I did set up the high directional as my last piece, and brought Jim up very comfortably.

It was Jim's turn again, and he led "Front-C " which is a pitch I am reluctant to lead since I slipped on it a couple of years ago. I had told Jim that the really good climbers don't do it as a layback, but use stemming and face-climbing instead. He took me at my word and proved that he is one of the "really good climbers" by not using layback at all. I followed and also avoided layback. I felt close to falling several times, but finally made it up clean, with no falls. Whew!

It was after 6 p.m. by then, and we decided to rap out rather than go for the summit. We dropped the ropes from the top of Front-C. I thought our tied twin ropes reached the ground, but rather than take a chance, I stopped at the LeGourmet belay ledge and we rigged another rappel from there.

Back at the parking lot, a note left by Dave and Ted indicated that they had gone to "The Front Porch" just about ten minutes before we arrived. We parked in the lot by Seneca Mountain Guides where I learned that Tom Cecil was off in Yosemite.

We joined Dave and Ted on the porch, and we finished off a large pizza with tomatoes and mushrooms. Alison, Caitlin, and Dave Gibson were there also, ready for climbing the next day. Dave Gibson had some climbing books he was sharing with folks who wanted to see them. He had made an excellent booklet of route maps that he made from the new three-state climbing guidebook from Falcon. He had highlighted the routes on the photos, producing a really nice, reference to carry in his pack.

Dave and Ted told of their adventure looking for Kauffman-Cardon after reaching the Skyline Traverse belay ledge. Ted was leading the first pitch from the Skyline Traverse belay ledge. When he reached the left-facing corner, instead of traversing right around the block to easier ground, Ted continued up the corner - he was doing Dufty's Popoff (5.7R). Finally he decided he was off route, and backed out to the Skyline Traverse ledge. They finished on Skyline Traverse.

After dinner, we went to GroupSite "E" and set up our tents. We were among the first at the groupsite, but others started arriving soon. Most of the Saturday participants were there by about 11 p.m., and we were able to have climbing teams ready for an early morning start.

SATURDAY - May 31

Any early morning start was negated by the clouds and intermittent drizzles as the day began. This resulted in decisions for leisurely breakfasts and general relaxing and socializing around camp while watching the overcast skies.

There had been a lot of juggling of leaders, veteran seconds, and students, especially with the late changes called in on Wednesday and Thursday. In the end, very little of the advance planning was really necessary. On Saturday we had ten leaders, nine "veteran seconds" (four of whom could have led if necessary), and only four students.

One of the students, having multipitch seconding experience was able to second, so we had an equal number of leaders and experienced seconds. That left only three teams with the traditional Leader-Student-VeteranSecond arrangement:

• Jeremiah Boychuck, Carrie Stevens, and George "Geo" Moore did Ecstasy Junior and the First Pitch of LeGourmet and were about to do Front-C when they got rained off.
  
  
• Dave Collins, Hannah Holm, and Brian Wolovich climbed East Side to Gunsight Notch. They decided that Gunsight to South Peak was too committing given the gathering clouds and rumbles, so they descended toward Ecstasy Junior, thinking that would be less committing. The heavy rain came before they could get started on it.
  
  
• Duke Schneider, Maggie Schneider, and Melanie Pallone took the Old Man's Route and were actually on the summit when the rain came in.

• Barb Homistek and Student/VeteranSecond Rikk Panzera did the first pitch of Ecstasy and bailed as the clouds came rolling in.

• Ted Davidson and Caitlin Reynolds climbed the first pitch of Ecstasy Junior, then went to Old Man's where Caitlin could practice leading on an easy pitch. Unfortunately, the rain came in before she could get the practice.
  
  
• Dave Haines and Jim Schuring climbed the first two pitches (to the rap bolts) of Conn's East.
  
  
  
• Dave Rolla climbed with Allison Scavuzzo
  
  
  
  
• Todd English and Dave Gibson climbed as a twosome, starting in the lower slabs and finishing on the first pitch of Rox Salt
  
  
• Shingo and Debbie Hornak summited via LeGourmet-FrontC--CritterCrack
  
  
  
• Phil Sidel and Ross Potter waited until almost 11 a.m. for student Stacy Waksmonski who was to arrive at 9:30 with John Hrizo. She never arrived, so they climbed the first pitch of Ecstasy Junior.

Back at GroupSite "E" there was lots of good fellowship under the tarp that Duke had erected - as long as that held up under the wind. The tarp and a few of the tents got blown around quite a bit during the night. I was pretty tired, and went to bed early. My cirrus tent was sound, and I slept well through the windy night.

SUNDAY - June 1

One group of students and instructors went hiking to the north peak. The rest started for home, but check out Jim Schuring's report of climbing that several found on the way home.

It was very sad that Gary Long and John Beckley had made the long trip to Seneca on Saturday night to climb on Sunday; then had to settle for a damp, chilly hike at most.

POSTSCRIPT - EXTENDED ROCK SCHOOL SESSIONS THRU THIS SUMMER